How to Walk With Your Dog on a Loose Leash
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No pulling - it sounds like a pretty simple request. But how many of us have seen a dog romping along with its person sliding behind, as if on water skis, trying desperately to keep up? Maybe you’ve even experienced this epidemic yourself. But in my mind, trying to hold on as your dog brings out his inner “Balto the Sled Dog” isn’t my idea of a good time walking with your dog. And honestly, it’s probably not too fun for your dog either, especially if you’re constantly trying to pull him back from what comes naturally for him as a dog. In today’s times, it’s imperative that we follow leash laws for the safety of ourselves, our dogs, and others (people and dogs), but walking your dog on leash doesn't have to be a major workout (or risk injury of being pulled down).
If we address the four main reasons that a dog pulls, we can get to a more peaceful walk on a loose leash. I like to think of it as the acronym M.O.R.E. - as in, "what MORE can you do to make walks most productive for you and your dog?" :
The way I see it, addressing these four factors will solve just about all of your leash problems. You will get to the root causes behind your dog's pulling behavior and help him bring out a calmer, more connected, less impulsive walking companion! Let's break each of these down a little further... |
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MECHANICS:
If a dog is new to being on leash or has never learned the actual skills of walking along with you, it makes perfect sense that he would try to get where he wants to go, unintentionally creating tension in the leash in the process. That tension then frustrates us, so we pull back in the leash to try to control the dog, which becomes a tug-of-war. So first, we have to understand the factors of RESPECT and BALANCE and how they each play a role in the methods we will be using.
Nobody enjoys being pulled on or micromanaged. You don’t, and neither does your dog. If I were to grab your arm and pull you one way, your natural reaction would be to balance yourself by pulling in the opposite direction - this is called the oppositional reflex. Dogs have this same reflex. So sometimes WE (yes, us humans) actually add to our dogs pulling on leash. By holding a leash short and tight, many people think they can have control over their dog. But autonomy and having a choice are just as important for dogs as they are for us - none of us want to be controlled. A dog wandering freely will often zig-zag from one smell or distraction to another, as this is their natural pattern of movement (they don't naturally tend to walk in a straight line like we humans do). I often find that when dogs are not forced to be right next to us, they actually choose to be closer to us. They don’t necessarily need that freedom – they just like to know that it’s there.
It’s important to understand your dog’s needs (and how they may be different from yours or from those of other dogs of different breeds/ages/etc.) and act accordingly to meet them. You may have seen amazing videos of trainers or owners who have dogs walking step by step next to them, the dog watching the person the whole time in "heel" position. Many people who practice obedience competitions do this, and it can be quite impressive to see. The difference here, however, is that when a dog is “heeling” on command and looking up at the person the whole time, this is WORK – the dog is focused and he has a job to do as he “watches” his person. There is a big difference between a dog that is doing this kind of competitive work, and a non-competition dog that needs to get his energy out, explore his world or build his confidence on a walk by processing and coping with the triggers in his environment. These are DIFFERENT kinds of dogs with different needs being met - see Enrichment below for more details.
That doesn't mean we abandon all rules, it just means that we loosen up on the reigns a little bit to meet the needs of our particular dog so we can provide them with the balance they need to be successful. For example, if you determine where you are walking and how you are getting there (using your leadership skills and setting boundaries), but you give your dog the length of the leash, as long as it is safe, to have a little latitude along the way to stop for a sniff or watch something happening around you (which meets his needs), you can both be happy.
If a dog is new to being on leash or has never learned the actual skills of walking along with you, it makes perfect sense that he would try to get where he wants to go, unintentionally creating tension in the leash in the process. That tension then frustrates us, so we pull back in the leash to try to control the dog, which becomes a tug-of-war. So first, we have to understand the factors of RESPECT and BALANCE and how they each play a role in the methods we will be using.
Nobody enjoys being pulled on or micromanaged. You don’t, and neither does your dog. If I were to grab your arm and pull you one way, your natural reaction would be to balance yourself by pulling in the opposite direction - this is called the oppositional reflex. Dogs have this same reflex. So sometimes WE (yes, us humans) actually add to our dogs pulling on leash. By holding a leash short and tight, many people think they can have control over their dog. But autonomy and having a choice are just as important for dogs as they are for us - none of us want to be controlled. A dog wandering freely will often zig-zag from one smell or distraction to another, as this is their natural pattern of movement (they don't naturally tend to walk in a straight line like we humans do). I often find that when dogs are not forced to be right next to us, they actually choose to be closer to us. They don’t necessarily need that freedom – they just like to know that it’s there.
It’s important to understand your dog’s needs (and how they may be different from yours or from those of other dogs of different breeds/ages/etc.) and act accordingly to meet them. You may have seen amazing videos of trainers or owners who have dogs walking step by step next to them, the dog watching the person the whole time in "heel" position. Many people who practice obedience competitions do this, and it can be quite impressive to see. The difference here, however, is that when a dog is “heeling” on command and looking up at the person the whole time, this is WORK – the dog is focused and he has a job to do as he “watches” his person. There is a big difference between a dog that is doing this kind of competitive work, and a non-competition dog that needs to get his energy out, explore his world or build his confidence on a walk by processing and coping with the triggers in his environment. These are DIFFERENT kinds of dogs with different needs being met - see Enrichment below for more details.
That doesn't mean we abandon all rules, it just means that we loosen up on the reigns a little bit to meet the needs of our particular dog so we can provide them with the balance they need to be successful. For example, if you determine where you are walking and how you are getting there (using your leadership skills and setting boundaries), but you give your dog the length of the leash, as long as it is safe, to have a little latitude along the way to stop for a sniff or watch something happening around you (which meets his needs), you can both be happy.
Some skills to build that lead to a looser leash...
Teaching your dog these important foundational skills will make the mechanics of walking on a loose leash easier in time. At first, you must work in small slices and focus on teaching your dog these skills (rather than just planning to walk a long distance for the sake of getting energy out). Focusing on the journey, not the destination, and also quality instead of quantity, will make this process most productive. It’s a good idea to practice each skill individually in a lower distraction area (like your home or yard) first, and then begin putting them all together, gradually adding in more distraction, distance or working in new environments.
Teaching your dog these important foundational skills will make the mechanics of walking on a loose leash easier in time. At first, you must work in small slices and focus on teaching your dog these skills (rather than just planning to walk a long distance for the sake of getting energy out). Focusing on the journey, not the destination, and also quality instead of quantity, will make this process most productive. It’s a good idea to practice each skill individually in a lower distraction area (like your home or yard) first, and then begin putting them all together, gradually adding in more distraction, distance or working in new environments.
- Name Response – To teach the dog to respond to his name without hesitation, it has to have a positive association for him. So start in an area with minimal distractions, say your dog’s name once in a happy, confident tone, and when he recognizes that you said his name, praise and reward him with some treats and pets. Resist the urge to repeat the name – doing so may confuse the dog and become an equivalent of “nagging”, it may also numb his response to the cue. Also, do not use his name in an angry or frustrated tone when he’s doing something wrong or he will not want to respond out of fear of punishment. Once you build up a good name response around minimal distractions, you can begin gradually adding more distractions. Once a solid skill in multiple scenarios, you can utilize this tool whenever you need to get your dog’s attention, even to redirect him from chasing a rabbit or out of play with another dog.
- Check In – Name response is a prompted behavior – YOU are cuing the dog to do something and respond to you. With a check in, the DOG is choosing to look at you, without being prompted by you. This can be one of the strongest conditioned responses you can teach your dog! If he’s watching or processing something else, but then makes a CHOICE to bring his attention back to you, that’s a check in! He is actively choosing you over distractions! So be sure to give him plenty of praise, treats, and throw him a good party for making that decision. When a dog has a thorough understanding of the check in, he also has a thorough understanding of his connection with you and how valuable that is over everything else the world has to offer.
- "Let's Go" – This is a verbal cue I use when I want the dog to move with me. Since dog’s naturally pick up moreso on our body language than our verbal cues, it’s important when we say “let’s go” that we actually turn in the direction we want to go and begin moving. Following through is important here so even if the dog does not come with you right away, you must begin moving so he takes your cues seriously! This may mean you will be putting tension in the leash for a few seconds as you start to move and he does not (just like if you were attached to a train that started leaving the station). The SECOND you feel your dog move in the direction with you and that tension in the leash is released, be sure to praise and reward him for moving along with you. When you build up a strong “let’s go”, this can also be a good redirect for the dog in many different situations – i.e. he wants to go to the pond but you don’t want him to go swimming right now, he stops to smell something and you want to keep moving, he notices another dog and begins reacting, etc.
- "This Way" – I use this verbal cue like one would use a blinker on a car – just to give the dog a heads-up that while you are walking you decide to change direction and, in this case, you’d like him to follow you. Just like the “let’s go”, it’s important you begin moving like you mean it in the direction you want to go, and praise and reward your dog when he changes direction with you.
- Stay Engaged – If you want the dog to choose you over distractions and walk on a loose leash, it’s important we keep the lines of communication open. If you “drop” your dog and are so focused on anything else other than him (such as your cell phone), it’s no wonder he will try to find something more interesting to do. So instead, as you’re walking and the leash is loose, I recommend periodically throwing in some conversation with your dog. It doesn’t even matter what you say (sometimes I talk about the silliest things that come to my mind when I’m on a walk with my dog). He doesn’t understand exactly what I’m saying; he just knows that I look happy to be engaged with him.
OVERSTIMULATION:
Dogs are more likely to pull when their arousal level is high due to overstimulation by the intensity or frequency of triggers (see this article from the Whole Dog Journal about arousal and thresholds). If this is the case, slowing the walk down will give your dog the time he needs to process one distraction at a time so you can then move forward when he is feeling a little calmer. It will also allow him to focus more clearly on you and the lesson rather than getting lost in all the minutiae around him. With a less confident dog, we also have to watch for what we refer to as "trigger stacking" - meaning one stressor is piled on top of another stressor, or more, making your dog's arousal level continue to climb rather than defuse. This can create more fear and anxiety over time, so we really want to take the time to help a less confident dog cope more productively and not accidentally create a bigger issue later on.
Walking your dog in a new place, or a large loop where he is continuously being hit with more novel distractions the whole time, can also lead to higher arousal. When first visiting a new or highly stimulating place (whether it's a park, downtown street, friend's neighborhood, etc.), you might want to plan to not go so far and just allow your dog to get his bearings (imagine rushing through NYC for the first time!). It’s better to walk back and forth in the same area a bit initially, as this will give the dog a chance to process his environment (sights and smells, etc.) on the first pass through but he will be able to focus on the lesson much more easily on repeated passes through (once the novelty of the sights and smells wears off).
Dogs are more likely to pull when their arousal level is high due to overstimulation by the intensity or frequency of triggers (see this article from the Whole Dog Journal about arousal and thresholds). If this is the case, slowing the walk down will give your dog the time he needs to process one distraction at a time so you can then move forward when he is feeling a little calmer. It will also allow him to focus more clearly on you and the lesson rather than getting lost in all the minutiae around him. With a less confident dog, we also have to watch for what we refer to as "trigger stacking" - meaning one stressor is piled on top of another stressor, or more, making your dog's arousal level continue to climb rather than defuse. This can create more fear and anxiety over time, so we really want to take the time to help a less confident dog cope more productively and not accidentally create a bigger issue later on.
Walking your dog in a new place, or a large loop where he is continuously being hit with more novel distractions the whole time, can also lead to higher arousal. When first visiting a new or highly stimulating place (whether it's a park, downtown street, friend's neighborhood, etc.), you might want to plan to not go so far and just allow your dog to get his bearings (imagine rushing through NYC for the first time!). It’s better to walk back and forth in the same area a bit initially, as this will give the dog a chance to process his environment (sights and smells, etc.) on the first pass through but he will be able to focus on the lesson much more easily on repeated passes through (once the novelty of the sights and smells wears off).
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RELATIONSHIP:
I worked with guide dogs for nine years. Imagine if you were blind and someone pulled on you - you could quickly lose your balance and fall over. These dogs had to learn from a very young age that they couldn't pull on leash, for the safety of their person. So how did we do that? By teaching the pups how valuable it was to follow us, take responsibility to check in with us on their own, and choose the person behind the leash over the things in their environment. We can apply the same lessons in building a connection between you and your dog. It's natural for your dog to notice distractions in his world. I'm not saying your dog should have blinders on - otherwise he is not taking in valuable information and processing his environment (which is critically important for a dog who needs help building his confidence). But being aware of the stimuli in his environment and getting lost to those distractions are two different things. By utilizing the key mechanical skills mentioned above and simply engaging with your dog during your walk, you can both have a pleasant experience that will still let him explore his world as appropriate but with you as a joint activity. This is where your calm but confident leadership also comes into play. For example, following a dog around and letting him dictate the walk is not a sign of strong leadership on your part; in fact, it teaches the dog that he makes the rules and you will go wherever he wants you to go. But if your dog shows interest in checking out something in particular (like sniffing a grassy patch or wandering into that cool stream), you can by all means ask him to work with you in some way (perhaps a sit or offering a check in), and then you will go check out that area together once you give him permission. This fosters a feeling of respect for both parties - you are letting your dog be a dog but you are also helping him stay within your parameters and following the rules you set. He learns to work with you to get what he wants, instead of pulling against you. |
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ENRICHMENT:
Dogs will also pull more if they have a lot of pent-up energy that has to come out! If this is the case, I would try taking the edge off by romping in the back yard for a few minutes, or playing some fetch or tug before attempting to go for a walk (think of it like gently loosening the top of a shaken soda bottle to let some of the bubbles settle first before opening the whole thing in one fell swoop!). If this is your dog's regular mode of operation, he may need some more productive outlets for his energy so that walks can be most beneficial.
If your dog is in a formal "heel" the whole time, this activity may not be a productive outlet for a dog. He may not get out his pent-up energy appropriately because he doesn't have room to physically move about and get his large muscle groups stirring (many dogs have strides and paces that are naturally different from ours so requiring a dog to remain in "heel" may be frustrating for the dog or stunt his natural flow of movement). Or he may not really get his mental juices flowing - I have seen many dogs take several-mile walks in heel position, only to come back home still in need of mental stimulation even though their owners are exhausted.
If an outlet is productive, you are meeting multiple needs at once and less can actually be more! For example, if we incorporate mental stimulation into our walks, we will not have to walk as far for our dog to be tired and satiated. It is not about how far we get (quantity) but more about what the walk did for your dog (quality). We often underestimate the importance of mental stimulation, but many dogs love using their brains to think about something or problem solve! By throwing in some obedience skills such as sitting at intersections before crossing, playing a "follow me" type game where you are zig-zagging/changing direction every so often to keep your dog engaged, offering some "sniff breaks", etc. - you are meeting your dog's needs for physical exercise, mental stimulation, social interaction, and species-specific behavior (sniffing) all at once!
For more information about meeting your dog's energy outlet needs and a better state of balance, see Understanding Your Dog's Need for Balance - Mentally, Emotionally and Physically.
Dogs will also pull more if they have a lot of pent-up energy that has to come out! If this is the case, I would try taking the edge off by romping in the back yard for a few minutes, or playing some fetch or tug before attempting to go for a walk (think of it like gently loosening the top of a shaken soda bottle to let some of the bubbles settle first before opening the whole thing in one fell swoop!). If this is your dog's regular mode of operation, he may need some more productive outlets for his energy so that walks can be most beneficial.
If your dog is in a formal "heel" the whole time, this activity may not be a productive outlet for a dog. He may not get out his pent-up energy appropriately because he doesn't have room to physically move about and get his large muscle groups stirring (many dogs have strides and paces that are naturally different from ours so requiring a dog to remain in "heel" may be frustrating for the dog or stunt his natural flow of movement). Or he may not really get his mental juices flowing - I have seen many dogs take several-mile walks in heel position, only to come back home still in need of mental stimulation even though their owners are exhausted.
If an outlet is productive, you are meeting multiple needs at once and less can actually be more! For example, if we incorporate mental stimulation into our walks, we will not have to walk as far for our dog to be tired and satiated. It is not about how far we get (quantity) but more about what the walk did for your dog (quality). We often underestimate the importance of mental stimulation, but many dogs love using their brains to think about something or problem solve! By throwing in some obedience skills such as sitting at intersections before crossing, playing a "follow me" type game where you are zig-zagging/changing direction every so often to keep your dog engaged, offering some "sniff breaks", etc. - you are meeting your dog's needs for physical exercise, mental stimulation, social interaction, and species-specific behavior (sniffing) all at once!
For more information about meeting your dog's energy outlet needs and a better state of balance, see Understanding Your Dog's Need for Balance - Mentally, Emotionally and Physically.
With the understanding and application of mechanics, overstimulation, relationship and enrichment, you can get your dog to walk nicely with you on leash as if that leash isn't even there. With enough practice implementing these methods, you can find that it doesn't matter whether your dog is on a 6-foot leash walking through your neighborhood or a 15-foot long line romping through the park or on a trail - his desire to choose to be with you will cause the tension in the leash to disappear, making walking a pleasant pastime you can both enjoy together!
Written by Maria Huntoon, Maria G. Huntoon Canine Consulting Services
